smell tales

Cabochard, probably the most well-known perfume by Grès, was first launched in 1959.

The official main notes here are bergamot, aldehydes, mandarin, galbanum, ylang ylang, jasmine, rose, cloves, oakmoss, tobacco, musk, iris, sandalwood, vetiver, leather, castoreum, patchouli and labdanum.

Cabochard is hated by many because it doesn't "deliver" what it's usually expected from a fragrance. It's brutal and serious, not playful nor delicate, it's straight forward and that can really bother. It's cold, present yet distant and somehow arrogant. A little harsh, it seems impolitic at first, still it remains reserved for all its 10 hour staying power.
This bold animalic dry cyphre debutes with citrics and deep green notes and evolves towards mossy, dusty leather, patchouli, spices, sage and a hint of smoke.

Although conceived for women, I see it more unisex, especially given the vetiver and tabac notes.

Not necessarily a bad boy, but the resemblance with Robert Piguet's Bandit validates its name (cabochard = French for stubborn).

It makes me think of an O de Lancome deprived of its citric effervescence, somehow missing the freshness. A pile of old books, bound in leather, over which someone has overturned a pot of aromatic herbs. A flurry of dust in the middle of summer, which doesn't announce any hint of storm. It has a strong personality, but without being cocky.

Ideal for rainy weather. In drydown it's quite adorable.